ralph lauren was again feeling nautical this season, showing rugby striped tanks paired with cropped white trousers, eyelet tops and lace trimmed skirts. he also threw in some madras patchwork skirt suits, well worn denim and gold button military jackets.
donna karan used architecture as a base for her spring presentation, specifically the redesigned museum of modern art. karan also explored a looser silhouette than her last two collections: many pieces were cinched at the waist with a black obi and skirts featured fuller skirts and sleeves ballooned then tapered to bracelet length. she utilized an earthy palette throughout of chocolate, black, navy, and cream, quite a change from the week’s other designers. the end portion featured dresses, coats and jackets with splashes of color, influenced by paul klee.
derek lam again showed why he is young designer worth watching. his sixties influenced collection featured cute tweed skirt suits and shift dresses, white tops over crisp khaki shorts, and soft empire waist bubble hem satin dresses. everything was sleek and fresh, without the heavy trappings.
l.a.m.b., designed by zaldy and gwen stefani, was the closer to ny fashion week, and many were anticipating a wonderful show. i, for one, was very disappointed with the designs. many looked as though they were ripped from the runway of some of gwen’s favorite designers: vivienne westwood, john galliano/dior, and chanel. and at 69 looks, it was a bit scattered for her first runway show. but that said, there were some standout gowns in the last section: one shoulder chiffon creations and stamped lace silks.